Dealing with collections First off when you’re dealing with collections, you’ve got to get everyone of them off or you’re gonna still hurting decent. You need pull all 3 reports from annualcreditreport.com to determine the DOFD for every one of them. That tells you when they have to come off of your report, seven years from DOFD. If they’re about to fall off you can worry less about them. If they’re still going to be on there for a while and you’ve got a deal with them, you need to determine whether they’re owned by the original creditor or by the debt collector who has purchased it. If they’re owned by the original creditor (a balance on an accompanying chargeoff would be a clue, if you’re unlucky enough to have one), have the original creditor recall them on agreement that you will pay them after they recall it and do so. This will cause those to be removed. The ones that are owned by the debt collector, you have to arrange a PFD as we call it (pay for delete) or pay for removal as some call it since they want to avoid the deletion word because people get them in trouble by telling on them for deleting them!! Don’t be one of those people! I had a guy here on Reddit just the other day, as soon as he gets it in writing from a debt collector that they’re gonna delete it, you know what he does? He mails it to the bureaus!!!! The SAME people the debt collector has an agreement with that they will NOT do PFD’s!! The same people who they have to keep a relationship with in order to keep their doors open and have a business and make money and pay the bills. So if you were them and somebody just screwed you over like that, would you do another PFD? So don’t be that person. All you’re doing is making it worse for people who come behind you. That’s why they won’t put it in writing now, because idiots mail it to the bureau and get their contract canceled. Would you give somebody a letter saying you’re going to do something that would violate your contract with the bureau, if that’s what allowed you to make money and be in business? So now you understand why many of them will not do it. I read it after the fact and I was like wow that’s why so few will do it now. But the point of it is the ones you cannot have recalled, you try to arrange a payment for removal, if you can. If you can’t, thank those idiots that tell on them. You have to have everyone of them either recalled or removed. If you don’t, if even one remains, it will severely hurt your score. Nevertheless the lower the number of collections, the better you look to future creditors so even if you can’t get everyone of them, it will still improve your file. So as far as collections go, if they can be recalled because the original creditor owns it, do it. If the debt collector owns it, arrange a PFD. If the debt collector refuses, then you’re gonna end up having to wait till it falls off, which is seven years from the DOFD. But if you’re going for a mortgage or something, you’ll end up having to pay it anyway because they want to see all collections paid, but if it’s not a mortgage you can get pretty much wait till it falls off. Some mortgage lenders will even give you a mortgage with unpaid collections you have to check with your mortgage lender if that’s what you’re planning. © 2022, MFBirdman7. All rights reserved by Birdman CreditRebels.
Post

What should I do about collections?

1 of 6
3 years ago
Thu Jan 20, 2022 1:17 am
User avatar
Birdman
Primer AuthorCo-Founder
Birdman has been gardening for over 2 years.
Level30 Last INQWednesday, March 2, 2022 Gardening For2 years, 6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes Next Level in24 days, 3 hours, and 51 minutes on October 2nd INQ 1yr onThursday, March 2, 2023 INQ 1yr reached1 year, 6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes ago INQ 2yr onSaturday, March 2, 2024 INQ 2yr reached6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes ago
Dealing with collections

First off when you’re dealing with collections, you’ve got to get everyone of them off or you’re gonna still hurting decent.

You need pull all 3 reports from annualcreditreport.com to determine the DOFD for every one of them. That tells you when they have to come off of your report, seven years from DOFD.

If they’re about to fall off you can worry less about them. If they’re still going to be on there for a while and you’ve got a deal with them, you need to determine whether they’re owned by the original creditor or by the debt collector who has purchased it.

If they’re owned by the original creditor (a balance on an accompanying chargeoff would be a clue, if you’re unlucky enough to have one), have the original creditor recall them on agreement that you will pay them after they recall it and do so. This will cause those to be removed.

The ones that are owned by the debt collector, you have to arrange a PFD as we call it (pay for delete) or pay for removal as some call it since they want to avoid the deletion word because people get them in trouble by telling on them for deleting them!! Don’t be one of those people!

I had a guy here on Reddit just the other day, as soon as he gets it in writing from a debt collector that they’re gonna delete it, you know what he does? He mails it to the bureaus!!!! The SAME people the debt collector has an agreement with that they will NOT do PFD’s!! The same people who they have to keep a relationship with in order to keep their doors open and have a business and make money and pay the bills.

So if you were them and somebody just screwed you over like that, would you do another PFD? So don’t be that person. All you’re doing is making it worse for people who come behind you.

That’s why they won’t put it in writing now, because idiots mail it to the bureau and get their contract canceled. Would you give somebody a letter saying you’re going to do something that would violate your contract with the bureau, if that’s what allowed you to make money and be in business? So now you understand why many of them will not do it.

I read it after the fact and I was like wow that’s why so few will do it now. But the point of it is the ones you cannot have recalled, you try to arrange a payment for removal, if you can. If you can’t, thank those idiots that tell on them.

You have to have everyone of them either recalled or removed. If you don’t, if even one remains, it will severely hurt your score.

Nevertheless the lower the number of collections, the better you look to future creditors so even if you can’t get everyone of them, it will still improve your file.

So as far as collections go, if they can be recalled because the original creditor owns it, do it. If the debt collector owns it, arrange a PFD. If the debt collector refuses, then you’re gonna end up having to wait till it falls off, which is seven years from the DOFD.

But if you’re going for a mortgage or something, you’ll end up having to pay it anyway because they want to see all collections paid, but if it’s not a mortgage you can get pretty much wait till it falls off. Some mortgage lenders will even give you a mortgage with unpaid collections you have to check with your mortgage lender if that’s what you’re planning.

© 2022, MFBirdman7. All rights reserved by Birdman CreditRebels.
Birdman
User avatar
  • Score data EQ8-827; TU8-817; EX8-816
    EQ5-751; TI4- 800; EX2-814
1
Post

Re: What should I do about collections?

2 of 6
2 years ago
Sun Aug 14, 2022 2:28 pm
User avatar
Birdman
Primer AuthorCo-Founder
Birdman has been gardening for over 2 years.
Level30 Last INQWednesday, March 2, 2022 Gardening For2 years, 6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes Next Level in24 days, 3 hours, and 51 minutes on October 2nd INQ 1yr onThursday, March 2, 2023 INQ 1yr reached1 year, 6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes ago INQ 2yr onSaturday, March 2, 2024 INQ 2yr reached6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes ago
I would also like to add a very important point. The metro2 specifications requires the date opened field for a collection be the date it was purchased or assigned. Frequently this date is miss reported by CAs. This causes the collection to look newer than it would. It appears once the algorithm identifies a collection, the only other thing that cares about is the date of opening. Obviously in version 9 & forward, there’s an exception, as it also looks to see whether it is medical or paid, but not for older versions. Remember as a collection ages, there is a point in the newer algorithms where you are assigned from a recent public record card to a mature public record card. So by this date being more recent than it should be, could cause the algorithm to reflect a lower score. it could also affect the older versions as well. And with a hat tip to @ActualSomewhere6132 for pointing this out: Collections are not supposed to report payment history, terms, or payment rating, per metro2. I’m not convinced it affects score if they do, however, it is inaccurate/improper reporting and could mean that other portions are misreported. If other portions are misreported and the algorithm is unable to identify it as a collection, I could see where it could potentially identify it as a tradeline which would cause it to apply to metrics outside of the payment history category. This could have serious score consequences if for instance 120 day late is reported, as for example as was shown in a screenshot/post by@ActualSomewhere6132 on our CR subReddit: metro2 part 5. (Good series of posts to check out.) Now it’s also possible that if the algorithm is unable to identify the account that it excludes it. The only way to know for sure is by doing a controlled test, of course, but there are plenty of people with collections from Midland and portfolio which I believe are some of the ones that do this. Unfortunately when this was occurring @ActualSomewhere6132 was not paying attention to score & negative reason codes, so we don’t have that data to know whether or not it was being counted as a tradeline rather than a collection. Anyway I thought this is good information that needed to be added and anyone with collections should make sure it is being reported as a collection and the date opened is correct. (Date last updated should not matter with a collection as it does with a chargeoff.)
Birdman
User avatar
  • Score data EQ8-827; TU8-817; EX8-816
    EQ5-751; TI4- 800; EX2-814
1
Post

Re: What should I do about collections?

3 of 6
2 years ago
Mon Aug 15, 2022 3:40 pm
User avatar
ActualSomewhere6132
Authorized Rebel
Thank you!

I am going to do some due diligence of the "Reason Code".

I reviewed the inventory posted here, and know I have collected some reports that used to show these values, and I do know - that those codes at times - made absolutely no sense when presented.

I am also working on some due diligence with the mapping of data to actual consumer tradeline/collections, and in many states.

Hoping this will help!!

Fun Stuff!!!
ActualSomewhere6132
User avatar
0
Post

Re: What should I do about collections?

4 of 6
2 years ago
Tue Aug 16, 2022 3:01 pm
User avatar
ActualSomewhere6132
Authorized Rebel
Hi there, Question, why would a debt collector's - collection be part of a Public Record algo? Especially if, there is no court action - or, no Court actions are recorded/allowed/reported? Remember as a collection ages, there is a point in the newer algorithms where you are assigned from a recent public record card to a mature public record card. So by this date being more recent than it should be, could cause the algorithm to reflect a lower score. it could also affect the older versions as well.
ActualSomewhere6132
User avatar
0
Post

Re: What should I do about collections?

5 of 6
2 years ago
Thu Aug 18, 2022 11:04 am
User avatar
Birdman
Primer AuthorCo-Founder
Birdman has been gardening for over 2 years.
Level30 Last INQWednesday, March 2, 2022 Gardening For2 years, 6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes Next Level in24 days, 3 hours, and 51 minutes on October 2nd INQ 1yr onThursday, March 2, 2023 INQ 1yr reached1 year, 6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes ago INQ 2yr onSaturday, March 2, 2024 INQ 2yr reached6 months, 5 days, 20 hours, and 9 minutes ago
@ActualSomewhere6132 we actually have a thread made by @Cassie that has all the reason codes combined and grouped with their number as each has a number that identifies it. And yes they are cryptic but we have figured out what most of them mean. If you review that thread, you will see all of them she collected from fico source documents. Collections have always been considered public records even back to the 1998 algorithms. I suppose since it is not a creditor with whom you have contracted and therefore cannot be treated as a creditor tradeline, this is likely why it is classified as a public record. I’ve never really thought about why it’s classified as a public record per se. I suppose your credit report is private, so where is it recorded that it’s a public record? That’s a good question, but it may be a distinction that doesn’t make a difference because that’s simply the classification within which fico places them for Scoring purposes. even if it were not a public record, there’s no reason they couldn’t classify it that way in the algorithm for scoring purposes that I see. They choose how to classify open ended accounts, LOCs, and everything else, so I don’t think there’s an arguable basis there. But who knows you may have some data that may make me reconsider my perspective, so I’m all ears if you have a basis for an argument?
Birdman
User avatar
  • Score data EQ8-827; TU8-817; EX8-816
    EQ5-751; TI4- 800; EX2-814
0
Post

Re: What should I do about collections?

6 of 6
2 years ago
Thu Aug 18, 2022 2:52 pm
User avatar
ActualSomewhere6132
Authorized Rebel
I can see in the workflow, that there is a step to take ALL negatives, and then apply additional steps to then break it down by TYPE of negative. I am stuck a bit on the naming, of PR I think. I may have to get over myself :-).
ActualSomewhere6132
User avatar
1
Processing